The 3 straps to the left are for lifting or towing and are not suitable for recovery. The two on the right are proper kinetic straps with plenty of stretch and rebound. |
A pair of rated recovery shackles, the orange day-glo paint is my addition, in case I drop the shackle it makes finding it in sand a lot easier. |
In general you will need two shackles, one for each end of the strap. Some vehicles have a recovery hook bolted to the chassis but most vehicles, especially the Japanese ones, have a recovery eye underneath. Make sure your shackles will fit through the recovery points before venturing off-road, the older Jeep Wranglers have a very small recovery loop on the front bumper and I've come across more than one stuck in the desert with gear that didn't fit the vehicle. I now carry multiple sizes of shackle to ensure I can cover any vehicle that needs rescuing.
- Assess: Firstly, check if the car is really stuck. Perhaps they need to lower tyre pressures a bit more to simply drive out. Often a good push will suffice. With vehicles stuck on a ridge, digging sand away from the chassis may be enough to allow it to drive out on it's own. If snatching is required take some time to assess the situation and determine the best direction to do the recovery. Take into account slopes, churned up tracks, soft patches and the length of strap available. Sometimes it's easier to pull the vehicle backwards, other times it might be easier to go forwards. Also consider if you, the driver, will be better off going forward or reversing.
- Clear: The stuck vehicle will have dug up a lot of sand, push away as much as possible in the direction of pull making a gentle ramp for the wheels. On heavily stuck vehicles also clear any sand from in front of the chassis cross-beams, axles and differential housings. Reducing drag makes recovery easier and safer.
- Attach: Attach the shackles to the recovery points on both vehicles. Do not simply use the tow hitch or the bumper, the forces generated could tear it loose. Always use the recovery point that is fixed to the chassis. Don't over tighten the screw pin, just finger tight. The tug will cause the pin to tighten anyway and make it difficult to remove afterwards, so don't make matters worse. Because one rarely has the luxury of doing a straight-line pull I tend to put the round part of the shackle through the recovery eye and the strap around the pin, this allows the shackle to swivel in the direction of pull. If the pin is put through the eye then it will slip until the ring is in one of the corners where the pin passes through the shackle. The strap will move to the side of the ring opposite this and you'll have a transverse load that can deform the the shackle (even if it's imperceptible to the eye.) This deformation is why it can be very difficult to remove the pin after a recovery*. Smaller recovery points that don't allow the shackle to pass through might force you to do it pin first, some of the stock recovery eyes on Jeep Wranglers seem to be too small to pass a shackle through.
- Layout: You need a bit of a run-up to build momentum, so there should be slack in the strap. A good technique is to lay the strap in a zig-zag pattern between the vehicles. This allows you to see if the strap has passed through itself which would result in a disastrous knot when doing the snatch. Knots severely weaken the strap and in a hard tug can sever the strap immediately, I had this happen once while crossing the Wahaiba Sands in Oman and is why I always use the zig zag technique and always carry a spare strap. The remains of the snapped strap hang from a tree in our garden as a swing for my kids and a reminder to me to properly supervise a recovery. To prevent broken recovery points from whipping about and sending a lump of steel through a windscreen or person, cover with a tarp or blanket to act as a damper.
The strap is laid in a zig zag and covered with something to dampen its speed should something break. - Communicate: Now, don't just jump into the vehicle and speed off. First have a chat with the person being rescued and explain what you plan to do, how far you intend pulling them, the direction to go and that they must ensure their front wheels are aligned with the pull. Make it clear that they are expected to help by driving out, but without spinning their wheels. Explain any hand signals you will use (being in different cars you won't be able to hear each other.) My hand signals are simple: Thumbs up for 'Ready' (and they must acknowledge) and a closed fist for 'Stop'. If you cannot see each other clearly, arrange for a passenger to stand at a distance and relay the signals. Tell your recoveree that if they drive over the strap after being freed that you'll push them back in the hole and leave them there. No, seriously, tell them.
- Away: Chase all gawkers and bystanders far away. Children are especially curious and so very vulnerable, make sure all spectators are at least two strap lengths away from the recovery and off to one side. Never let anyone stand between the vehicles during the pull. Remember, two vehicles exerting a combined weight of a few tons can send a detached shackle through a crowd of people without stopping, even a strap on its own could be lethal to a child. Keep them far away. On some heavy recoveries I've even raised the hood so that any flying projectiles will strike it first rather than pierce a windscreen and the driver.
- Recover: Now it's time to do the actual snatch: The stuck vehicle signals that it is ready and is in the appropriate gear depending on if it's to go backwards or forwards. The rescuer drives off at a moderate pace, building momentum. Don't be hasty, a couple of firm tugs is more effective and a lot safer than one almighty jerk. You should feel a gentle tug as the strap tightens, carry on driving for a few metres and then put on the brakes. DO NOT spin your wheels and try to tow the other car out, all you'll do is dig yourself in and then two vehicles will need recovery. After a few seconds you'll feel the strap contract and hopefully the other vehicle will be firmly but gently pulled from its resting place. If the first tug doesn't do it, go back again without driving over the strap, make sure there are no obstructions that you missed the first time and repeat with a bit more gusto, but just a bit mind you. Sometimes it takes more than one pull but avoid repeated, heavy jerks as this weakens the strap (it's not a tow rope, remember.). Once the car is free keep driving to the pre-arranged firm spot. You might need some pliers to loosen the shackle pin, even if it was only finger tight in the first place.
*My view on proper orientation of the shackle, strap and recovery eye is based on experience and having done some reading on industrial rigging. If there are riggers who disagree with this approach I'd be happy to hear from you and make any corrections.
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